Tuesday

Mercedes Distributor Rotor - Giving the Necessary Spark

The primary task of the ignition system in Mercedes Benz vehicle is to ignite the fuel at exactly the right time so that the expanding gases can do the maximum amount of work. It is usually switched on and off through a lock switch operated with a key or a code patch. If the ignition system fires at the wrong time, power will fall and gas consumption and emissions can increase. Because of this task, the ignition system is considered an important part of the overall engine system.

And for that spark to be made, subcomponents are needed to do such tasks. This includes the sparkplugs, ignition coil and the distributor. The distributor deserves more credit as performs various functions like distributing high voltage from the coil to the correct cylinder and breaking the current to the coil.

Working in tie-up with the distributor cap in the distributor assembly, the Mercedes distributor rotor distributes electricity from the ignition coils to the spark plug wires at the right timing. It switches high-sparking voltage from the spark plugs to fire in correct sequences.

The metal part of the Mercedes distributor rotor contacts the central high voltage cable from the coil via a spring loaded carbon brush. The metal part of the rotor arm passes close to (but does not touch) the output contacts which connect via high tension cables to the spark plug of each cylinder. As the rotor spins within the distributor, electrical current is able to jump the small gaps created between the rotor arm and the contacts due to the high voltage created by the ignition coil.

The firing end of the Mercedes distributor rotor is from where the high tension spark jumps to each of the cap terminals. It should not be worn because wearing out will result in resistance to the high tension spark. A worn firing end of the rotor requires immediate replacement. The rotors are mounted on the upper end of the distributor shaft. Thus, the Mercedes distributor rotor must have a snug fit on the end of the shaft. With other designs, two screws are used to attach the rotor to a plate on the top of the distributor shaft. Built-in locators ensure correct reassembly. These are found at the rotor and holes in the plate. One of which is round while the other is square.

For more about your Mercedes parts needs like Mercedes distributor rotor, visit your trusted online source.

Dwyane Thomas is a part time cook and full-time auto-enthusiast. This 31-year old Civil and Environmental graduate is a consultant at one of the engineering firms in Pennsylvania.

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Hydraulic Trailer Brakes - Drum Brake-to-Disc Brake Conversion

There are two basic types of hydraulic trailer brakes typically seen on trailers: Drum brakes and Disc brakes. Drum brakes are an older style and use a hydraulically actuated wheel cylinder to force a pair of spring loaded brake "shoes" against the internal braking surface of brake drum, which also acts as the hub.

Disc brakes use a hydraulic actuation of a piston in the caliper to force the pads to close (pinch) both sides of the rotor. This is a newer design found on most modern automobiles.

Disc brakes have a few advantages over drum.
1) Better stopping power
2) No adjustment necessary to compensate for shoe wear
3) Easy pad replacement
4) Less complicated - no springs
5) For boat trailers, reduced incidence of corrosion

They come in two basic designs: Vented and Non-vented. Vented rotors are preferred because they tend to dissipate heat better than non-vented rotors, minimizing a main cause for failure.

For boat trailers, corrosion caused by immersion in fresh or salt water is always a main concern. The salt water can also cause problems when salt crystallizes in the moving parts of the caliper and on the caliper pins. The disc available today, come in either powder coated for standard use, silver cadmium plated for standard salt-water use or stainless steel for extended saltwater use.

To begin the conversion from drum to disc, it is best to start at the front of the trailer. The Hydraulic actuator, (surge or electric/ hydraulic) will need to be either modified or changed out to one that is designed for disc brakes. The disc brake actuator will have an outlet brass fitting with a larger aperture (5/32") and the check valve found in the drum brake actuator will be absent. Disc brakes require more flow of brake fluid than drum brakes.

Since disc brakes are not designed with the (free-backing) feature, a method to lock out the brake lines will be required. This can be accomplished by installing either an electric lockout solenoid or a mechanical manual ball valve placed in the brake line.

The disc brake calipers require a flexible brake line leading into the piston to work properly. Inspect your brake line and install if necessary.

Safely jack up and block your trailer. Remove the tire / rim assembly. Remove the old brake drum and the brake assembly. The brake assembly is fastened to the axle brake flange with 4 or 5 bolts.

The new disc brake assembly will have a bracket, caliper, rotor and mounting hardware included. General steps to make the conversion are as follows.
Step 1: mount the bracket to the axle flange.
Step 2: prepare and slide the rotor on to the axle spindle and lock in place. Follow standard practice to set the bearings.
Step 3: The caliper will then sit on the rotor and be fastened to the bracket with "slider pins". Read your assembly instructions before beginning the installation.

Trailer Parts Superstore carries Disc Brakes by Reliable, Kodiak and Tie-Down Engineering. You can find everything you need to make a drum to disc conversion at http://www.easternmarine.com/shop/

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Some Important Information About Fuel Injector and Idler Arm

There are lots of steps associated with the fuel injector changing process. If you're unsure of something you should be seeking the help of those that are skilled than you regarding automotive things. Before you even think about opening your vehicle, you should be making sure you are with the right kind of tools. After that you should be learning the different parts that are found inside your vehicle. Only if you do this, you will understand at least something when you read articles for learning the process of changing the fuel injector of a vehicle.

First of all, you should have a look at the engine of your vehicle. If everything is working fine, you can proceed to the next steps. You should be making yourselves aware about the different parts and their working conditions. So, when you first open the casing, take a snapshot of things that you find there. It'd be helping you for sure in a later stage. By that time you would have already gotten familiar with these things. But still, this would be helping you in the initial stages. It would be taking just seconds but you would be getting benefited a lot.

If you have been driving a car for some time now, you would know the importance of having an idler arm. It would be making things easier for you. But you should know how to make adjustments using the equipment, while you are on the roads. You should be checking its condition every now and then - so that you'll be getting the best of it. For a nicer driving experience, you should be checking each and every part of your vehicle when you take it for maintenance. That means, you should be taking your car for maintenance regularly. Otherwise, you won't be able to inspect these kinds of things that easily.

You should be purchasing a bunch of things if this is the first time you're going to attempt the idler arm changing thing. You should be starting the changing process only after making sure you are with the right set of tools and products. Same is the case with fuel injector also - in this case, it's a good idea to read articles posted in related sites. There are lots of such sites online - so it won't be a problem at all.

Visit the following links to find out about how to change fuel injector. You will also find guide regarding how to change idler arm. This would be quite helpful for you and save you some money as well.

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Wednesday

Your Car Axle

Let's cover the basic definition of an axle: a central shaft for either a rotating wheel or a gear. On vehicles that have wheels, the axle can be fitted to the wheels. This means that it rotates them around the axle.

Axles are known to be an integral component of a wheeled vehicle. If there's a live-axle suspension system, the axles are there to transmit driving torque to the wheel. It also maintains the position of the wheels that are relative to each other and also to the body of the vehicle. The axles that are in this system have to bear the weight of the entire car and the weight of the cargo. If there is a non-driving axle, then there is no shaft. It usually only serves as a suspension and steering component.

In different suspension systems, the axles are installed only to transmit driving torque to the wheels.

If someone is talking about a Straight axle, this means that this special type of axle is a single rigid shaft that connects the wheel on the left side to the wheel on the right side of the car. The axis of rotation fixed by the axle is common to both of the wheels; this specific design can keep the wheel positions steady under heavy stress (if there is any); then, it can have enough support for heavier loads. The straight axles are used on things like trains and heavy-duty vehicles that can be used when someone wants to go off-roading.

If there's a split-axle design, the wheel on each side of the axle is attached to a separate shaft. Most of the modern passenger cars have split drive axles. In some of these designs, this can usually allow for independent suspension of the left and the right wheels - this gives you a smoother ride. Say the suspension isn't independent, the split axles permit the use of something called a differential; this lets the left and right drive wheels be driven at different speeds as the car turns - this will improve traction & can even extend your tire life! This means you don't have to spend as much money for new tires.

There's something called a dead axle (it's also called a lazy axle), and it's not really part of the drive train; it's free-rotating instead. The rear axle of your typical front-wheel drive car can be considered a dead axle. There's a lot of trucks & trailers that use dead axles for specific load bearing purposes - nothing else. These dead axles are placed immediately in front of the drive axle. There's another thing called the tag axle & it's just the same thing but it's placed behind the drive axle.

A tandem axle is classified as a group of two or more axles that are situated close together. Most truck designs have this type of axle - it gives the car a greater & more efficient weight capacity when you compare it to a single axle. If you have a semi trailer, then you most likely have a tandem axle at the rear.

So as you can tell - if you read this entire article - there are more types of axles than the one that comes on your car. They're not really good or bad, just different types. Which one do you have on your car? Do you know how to identify the one that you have? If not, read it again.

Cristine Gutierrez
http://www.Junk-Yard-Bids.com

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Tuesday

Has Your Head Gasket Really Gone Bad?

The last words any car owner wants to hear at a repair shop is they need a head gasket. It is not a cheap repair and often is a predictor of future problems down the road. The question in many cases, however, is whether a faulty gasket is actually the problem.

The head gasket performs a critical task in the modern internal combustion engine. It is the seal between the engine block and the engine head. More specifically, this is what creates the seal that closes off the cylinder combustion chambers. It keeps coolant and water out and oil in. It also creates a tight enough seal that the combustion chamber can be pressurized to the maximum efficiency to produce power when the gas and air mixture is fired by the spark plug. Basically, the head gasket is the most critical gasket in your car.

The head gasket is a funny thing when it comes to engines. It has to be put on just right. This would seem to suggest that it needs to be cranked down as hard as possible to perfect a seal. That really isn't the case. Instead, every car comes with recommended specifications and a torque wrench needs to be used. Get it too loose and unintended substances can get into the cylinders. Get it to tight and you destroy the gasket or warp/fracture the engine head.

So, do you really have a head gasket problem? Well, you need to be vigilant. It is easy to tell if you have a problem in the head gasket AREA just by running the engine, but nobody can really tell if the head gasket needs replacing until the engine head is removed. The first step should be to check the bolts again and make sure they are torqued as specified. You would be surprised how many times this cures the problem.

Assuming retightening the head doesn't do the trick, it is time to take a look at your exhaust. Most people assume black exhaust is a bad sign. It isn't. It just means your engine is running rich. White or gray exhaust is really what you want to watch for. It usually means there is a more serious problem in the head gasket area. The problem can be a bad head gasket, but it is just as likely to mean a bad head. Modern engines used lighter materials for the engine head and many of them can suffer small cracks as the wear and tear of the engine builds up.

The bad new is there is really no way to know the specific problem until the head is yanked off the engine. At that point, you are already on your way to an expensive repair. Fixing the head gasket and head does not involve expensive parts, but it takes a lot of time. Mechanics charge by the hour, so you can expect the bill to be pretty high.

Problems around the head of the engine in your car do not necessarily mean that the top part of the engine is a mess. First check to make sure the bolts on the head are tightened to the specified figures. If that doesn't work, take a look at your bank balance, take a deep breath and prepare yourself for expensive, bad news.

Dirk Gibson is with DCJAutoParts.com - find high performance aftermarket car parts that will make your engine per like kitten and perform like a Puma.

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Saturday

The Difference Between AC and DC Electric Motors

There are two main types of electric motors. There are direct current or DC and alternating current or AC motors. The reference of DC header or AC refers to how the electrical current is transferred through and from the motor. Both types of motors have different functions and uses. Dc motors come in two general types. They can have brushes or be brushless. AC motors, as well, come in two different types. They can be two phase or three phase. The differences in DC and AC motors are sometimes subtle, but these differences are what make one types better for a certain use.

Direct current or DC electric motors work for situations where speed needs to be controlled. DC motors have a stable and continuous current. DC motors were the first and earliest motors used. They were found, however, to not be as good at producing power over long lengths. Electric companies found using DC motors to generate electric did not work because the power was lost as the electric was transmitted. Brush DC motors use rings that conduct the current and form the magnetic drive that powers the rotor. Brushless DC motors use a switch to produce the magnetic drive that powers the rotor. Direct current motors are often found in appliances around the home.

Alternating current or AC electric motors are used differently based on what type of AC motor it is. Single phase AC motors are known as general purpose motors. They work well in many different situations. These AC motors work great for systems that are hard to start because they need a lot of power up front. Three phase, also called polyphase, AC motors are usually found in industrial settings. These motors also have high starting power build transmit lower levels of overall power. AC power gets its name from the fact that it alternates in power. The amount of power given off by an AC motor is determined by the amount of power needed to operate the system.

DC and AC electric motors are found everywhere from the home to the car to industrial plants. Motors are important to everyday life. Dc motors were introduced and caused a great revolution in the way many things are done. When AC motors came on the market the way motors were looked at changed because of their amazing starting power potential. DC motors and AC motors are different in many ways, but they still both are usede to power the world.

http://electricmotors-hq.com Everything you need to know about electric motors from their history to buying new and used.

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Oxygen Sensor Solutions Article

Virtually every car produced since the early 1980s contains a sensor that regulates oxygen flow to your engine. The oxygen sensor works by sending information to your vehicle's engine management system to help your car fun efficiently as well as to reduce noxious emissions. When an oxygen sensor fails your vehicle will run less effectively and devour more fuel. Thus, when oxygen sensor failure has been determined the sensor must then be replaced, a costly proposition if you rely on a garage to do the work for you. However, replacing an oxygen sensor is a task that you can do yourself, thereby saving you precious time and money. Let's take a closer look at just what an oxygen sensor does and the steps you can take to do the work yourself.

As a backgrounder, your oxygen sensor works like this: placed inside of your exhaust pipe, the oxygen sensor detects the ratio of air and gasoline your engine is fed. If the mixture is too rich or too lean than the oxygen sensor adjusts the amount of fuel entering your engine accordingly. The wrong mix of gasoline and oxygen can increase pollutants that exit your vehicle - thereby harming the environment -- as well as potentially causing your catalytic converter to fail or even damage your engine. So, a properly working oxygen sensor is a must for any vehicle.

There are some clear signs that your oxygen sensor is no longer functioning. They can include:

--A rotten egg odor emitting from the exhaust.

--A reduction in fuel economy.

--Your catalytic converter fails unexpectedly.

--Exhaust emissions reach undesirable levels.

--Your engine surges or hesitates.

You can diagnose the problem yourself if you have access to the right tools including a digital voltmeter, an oxygen sensor socket, and a propane enrichment device. These specific tools, along with a proper Haynes or Chilton manual by your side, should be all that you need to determine if the oxygen sensor is no longer working. If it has failed, than consider ordering your replacement part online through a reliable wholesaler such as the Oxygen Sense shop to obtain a high quality OEM part at discounted prices. Once your part has arrived than all you will need is one or two automotive wrenches to accomplish the job. Again, reference your car's manual for exact instructions.

With the abundance of sensors and technical gadgetry on today's vehicles it can seem fairly intimidating to do the work yourself. Fortunately, an oxygen sensor is one of the easier parts to replace, so if you do the work yourself you will save time and money as well as gain an important sense of achievement. Go ahead you weekend mechanic, you can do it!

Matthew C. Keegan is a freelance writer who resides in North Carolina. Please visit his power-packed automotive blog -- The Auto Writer -- for industry news and trends.

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